Another Gruner Veltliner tasting …

Posted on May 30, 2013 by larry

Copy of Copy of HHW_300dpi_col

Hahndorf Hill Winery
  Adelaide Hills

The big question on many lips that have been wetted with Gruner Veltliner is whether the Australian versions will translate into the style of a typical European Gruner Veltliner.
To put this to a mini-test this evening, I opened four Gruner V’s and tasted them blind. There were three Europeans and one Australian in the line-up.

Wine no 1: Full nose of stone fruit, melon and herbs – palate bursting with sweet nectarines, spice, texture and mineral notes. Possibly a bit of residual sugar but not unpleasant. Quite a big styled wine.

Wine no 2: Fresh, clean pear and herbs on nose – big on the palate with mouth-filling, mad tumble of spice, texture, stone-fruit and citrus. Great balance between zesty freshness and the interplay of spice and texture. Good long finish.

Wine no 3: Prominent spicy, candied pear on nose – oodles of spice that is offset by lovely citrus and gentle stone fruit tones. Fresh and bracing yet quite a powerfully structured and classy wine.

Wine no 4: Gentle melon and spice on nose. The palate is a gentle melange of herbs, melon and spice with a web of mouth-filling texture.

And the wines?

Gruner Veltliner tasting done at Hahndorf Hill Winery

Gruner Veltliner tasting done at Hahndorf Hill Winery

No 1: Stift Goettweig Grüner Veltliner Goettweigerberg 2010. (Kremstal)
This wine is made from grapes sourced from a vineyard owned by a 1000 year-old Benedictine monastery, now leased to a business consortium.
The monastery and vineyard hold a commanding position on Gottweiger mountain on the southern banks of the Danube, opposite the town of Krems.

No 2: Hahndorf Hill GRU Gruner Veltliner 2010. (Adelaide Hills)
This was our very first vintage of Gruner which was produced from three clones imported from Austria.

No 3: Weingut Knoll Loibner Grüner Veltliner 2010. (Wachau)
This celebrated winery from the Wachau region is situated in the beautiful village of Unterloiben alongside the Danube. The baroque-like label features an image of Saint Urban, the patron saint of wine.

No 4: Salomon Undhof – Wieden & Berg Grüner Veltliner 2008. (Kremstal)
This wine was made by Bert Salomon, a 7th-generation Austrian winemaker, whose family business produces acclaimed whites; but he also owns a vineyard in the Fleurieu Peninsula, where he makes robust reds.
The grapes for this wine were sourced from the beautiful vineyard beside the family winery.

It was interesting that I hadn’t tasted the HHW GRU for over two years and I was unable to pick it out amongst this bunch of suave Europeans. The wines were clearly all from the same variety and generally had very similar profiles of body, texture and aromatics.

Conclusion: It will be very intriguing to watch how this exciting variety evolves in the New World over the coming vintages and especially here in the Adelaide Hills. This cool-climate, South Australian wine region has remarkably similar growing-season conditions to the wine region of Lower Austria, which is the spiritual home of Gruner Veltliner.

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Gruner dreaming

Posted on April 30, 2013 by larry

 

Copy of Copy of HHW_300dpi_col

Hahndorf Hill Winery
  Adelaide Hills

 Folks, it is now almost time to be able to reach out and touch the Hahndorf Hill ‘GRU’ Gruner Veltliner 2013! Well, almost, but not quite. This is because all the building blocks are now virtually ready and soon we’ll be putting the final blend together prior to bottling.

Vintage 2013 was a great year with no disease pressures, good temperatures and our vines are now just that bit older, allowing us more options in the vineyard. I am hoping this year to not only capture the typical freshness of this wonderful variety, with a good citrus/pear backbone and the spicy, savoury notes, but also the rich and appealing stone-fruit quality that the Austrians rave about.

In order to put together the most complex and exciting wine possible, we have made several different fermentation parcels, each with their own specific fermentation processes and each will therefore have their own taste personality. Once completed, we will decide which of these wines – and in what proportions – will be blended together to make the GRU 2013.

Gruner Veltliner tank sample at Hahndorf Hill.

Larry drawing a tank sample of the Hahndorf Hill Gruner 2013.

Wow ... almost there!

Wow … almost there!

 

This  is a pic of the batch that was tank fermented. The wine is still cloudy with lees but it is already clear how beautiful and fresh this component will be!

 

 

Larry and Gruner Veltliner barrel.

Love me, love my barrel.

The barrel ferments are still ticking along nicely and we have a combination of wild ferment and inoculated yeast fermentations that are nearly – but not quite yet – dry. The contribution from this batch will be deliciously unctuous and rich and will hopefully be the perfect foil to the fresher, crisper batches.

Next big step will be to decide how much and which of the various components to blend together to make the best possible wine for you! This will be the fun part and I can barely wait …

Look out folks … GRU 2013 is coming your way soon!

For pre-release allocations of our GRU 2013, and further information, please go to http://bit.ly/XUJJct

Enjoying the fruits of the harvest.

Enjoying the fruits of the harvest.

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Proudly presenting GRU Gruner Veltliner 2013 ….

Posted on March 30, 2013 by larry

“The time has come”, the walrus said, “to pick those Gruner grapes … ” This is the time when all one’s dreams culminate and coalesce upon a single exciting pleasure – the considerable delight of harvesting Gruner Veltliner.

For weeks I have been watching the fruit hang in the late afternoon light, with each bunch looking like it’s about to explode with amazing vibrancy and flavour – and at last it is time to harvest! This is a difficult process, only because I am so busy tasting the berries as I pick each bunch, that ergonomically it just does not work for me. But fortunately we have a wonderful team of harvesters and I have taken a series of pics to illustrate the joyous process of the harvest.

Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner bunches

Ripe Gruner Veltliner bunches about to be harvested at Hahndorf Hill Winery

 

My, what dirty fingernails I have! (Double click on pic to get right under the nails!) … But I suppose that’s all part of the process. The amazingly vibrant flavours in the fruit this year include melons, paw paw, banana and mango.

 

 

 

 

Freshly harvested Gruner Veltliner at Hahndorf Hill Winery.
Buckets of freshly harvested Gruner Veltliner.

 

Look at those bunches light up in the black buckets! They’re about to explode with beautiful flavours …

 

 

 

 

Newly harvested Gruner Veltliner at Hahndorf Hill

The rewards of the harvest being poured into the large harvest bins.

 

 

The accumulated bounty tumbles into the big harvest bin.

 

 

 

 

 

Crushing and detemming of Gruner Veltliner.

Proud Gruner dad busy at crusher.

 

What a long day it has been – but now that the grapes are being crushed I can relax with a little *reward. (*See left hand.)

For pre-release allocations of our GRU 2013, and further information, please go to http://bit.ly/XUJJct

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Gruner getting ready at Hahndorf Hill

Posted on February 26, 2013 by larry

 

Beautiful bunch of 2013 Gruner Veltlier at Hahndorf Hill
Beautiful bunch of 2013 Gruner Veltliner

Just look at this picture! What does it conjure up for you?

For me these slowly ripening little orbs of Gruner Veltliner are bursting with an irresistible freshness and vibrancy as they dangle in the afternoon sunlight. Pluck a juicy berry, pop it in your mouth and crunch it to release a splash of melon, kiwi-fruit, citrus and peach – plus a gentle spritz of spice.
I have to be careful, as the natural temptation is to gorge myself on this wonderful treat – and the birds like them too, hence the bird netting to keep their little eager beaks at bay.

But be patient, because soon we’ll be harvesting our Gruner Veltliner to make your next bottle of GRU 2013!

Here are some interesting facts about this wonderful Austrian variety:

The wine made from these grapes is never a fruity-tooty concoction, but rather a wonderful balance of savoury elements, stone fruit, pears and spice. Think vibrant and textural with celery, apple skin, coriander, pear and that exotic spritz of white pepper.

Austria is the spiritual home of the exciting variety where it has references going back to between the 17th and 18th centuries. It is, however, also planted in Slovakia, Czech Republic and Hungary and, of course, now also in Australia.

Gruner Veltliner has the reputation of being the most food friendly wine on the planet. This is because of its unique savoury / umami characteristics. The umami component is thought to come from the fermentation of the high protein content found naturally in the Gruner juice, combined with its unique flavour profile.

Perfect food matches include:
Natural oysters and all other shellfish and sea foods
Made in heaven for Chinese, Indonesian, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine
Salads and vegetables including artichokes and asparagus, beans and lentils
Perfectly at home with many exotic and flavourful spices. Try Gruner with foods seasoned with curry, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, mace, star anise, cumin, and tumeric
Rich white meats, fowl, and charcuterie such as Italian salami or German Wurst

So it’s not difficult for you to understand why I can barely contain my excitement for the coming vintage of GRU 2013!

For pre-release allocations of our GRU 2013, and further information, please go to http://bit.ly/ilfxBa

 

 

 

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Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner under cover

Posted on January 28, 2013 by larry

There are two things that I dread the most above all – one is the winter solstice, when the shortest day and longest night is celebrated each year. This is because I’m essentially a winter person and the winter solstice marks the point from which the unrelenting downhill trudge towards summer begins.

Second on my dread list is having to put out the bird netting each year in the vineyard. I love the birds, that’s why we use bird netting to protect the grapes rather than gas guns or other guns. But this love has a high price to pay, which is the extremely arduous task of ‘rolling out them nets.’

Can you imagine what it is like to have to cover 15 acres of land with nets? I start perseverating about this upcoming task from about July every year, knowing that by end January, then nets will have to go on. But once the nets are on, my heart soars and I can really begin to enjoy the lead up to harvest!

This is the sweet spot where I now find myself. The damn nets are on – see pic below – and I can now relax and wander through this netted wonderland, and monitor the progress of the slowly ripening grapes.

Hahndorf Hill gruner veltliner under netting

Bird netting over part of the Hahndorf Hill vineyard

The Gruner Veltliner is looking excellent as it moves into veraison, although it is still far too green at this stage to have any flavour development. We do, however, have an exciting project planned in conjunction with the local uni, which is to monitor the levels of rotundone in the Gruner juice. Rotundone is the sesquiterpene compound that is associated with the peppery quality found in Gruner Veltliner and we are hoping to discover at which stage of ripening this compound is most prevalent. We will also be looking at the different clones of Gruner Veltliner that I have planted to evaluate whether there is a quantitative difference in rotundone levels.

Sesquiterpine compound levels aside, I’m looking forward to a wonderful Gruner harvest late in March this year so do watch this blog for further updates!

For pre-release allocations of our GRU 2013, and further information, please go to http://bit.ly/ilfxBa

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The earliest hint of Gruner Veltliner …

Posted on December 14, 2012 by larry

It is now mid-December and the vines are looking gorgeous. It’s a real joy to wander through the Gruner Veltliner block and to admire the beautiful green growth, the newly formed grape bunches … and to daydream. I can’t help picturing these baby little bunches being transformed – like an alchemist’s dream – into pale, golden Gruner Veltliner. The bunches are still quite young and the berries still smaller than peas, but this does not deter me from envisaging the final product.

New Gruner Veltliner at Hahndorf Hill Winery

New Gruner Veltliner bunches at Hahndorf Hill Winery

It’s a bit like a proud parent looking into the crib of a sleeping newborn bub and imagining -in full technicolour – the future potential of the little person. Perhaps a writer or a rocker – or maybe a teacher. One is allowed to dream and imagine, and in the case of the baby Gruner Veltliner bunches, I comfort myself in the knowledge that all big things have small beginnings. Like the mountain stream that becomes the Amazon. Like the fresh eggs that become the steaming soufflé. And so I permit myself the indulgence of fantasising how this GRU 2013 will be.

Speaking of GRU – I’m delighted that our vintage 2012 has been given some excellent accolades recently. It was awarded a prestigious Blue-Gold medal at the Sydney International Wine Competition and also a Silver medal at the Alternative Varieties Wine Show 2012.

Here’s wishing you all a magical Christmas and a peaceful 2013. And may all your dreams come true!

 

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Spring days of wine and roses at Hahndorf Hill

Posted on October 31, 2012 by larry

I never know whether Spring reminds me of Champagne or whether Champagne reminds me of Spring – but they both leave me with a light-headed sense of joy and pleasure. What I do know is that I would be eternally grateful to anyone who decides to produce a sparkling Gruner Veltliner, as I strongly suspect that this variety has all the ingredients to make a scintillating bubbly!

Until that happens, I will continue to muse on this delicious topic as I work away in the vineyard.

Seeing that I do not make a bubbly, I’ve decided to capture for you an alternative hedonistic pleasure – that of spring roses. Images of roses in and around our vineyard, where their only purpose is that of beauty and pleasure.

Hahndorf Hill and Blaufrankisch and roses

Madam Alfred Carriere and Blaufrankisch vines

This first pic is of a rose variety with the magical name of Madame Alfred Carriere, which is a climbing rose. In the background is the Blaufrankisch block. Double-click on the image to enjoy it in all its glory!

 

 

 

Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner and roses

Souvenir de Mme Leonie Viennot, Lamarque and Gruner Veltlier vines

The next image is a blushing pink beauty called Souvenir  de Mme Leonie Viennot (roughly translated to ‘memory of Ms Leonie Viennot’) plus the shy white head of Lamarque, partly hidden by green leaves. The vineyard in the background is Gruner Veltliner.

 

 

 

Hahndorf Hill Sauvignon Blanc and roses

David Austin’s Belle Storey and Sauvignon Blanc vines

The next pic is a combination of French lavender and David Austen’s Belle Story, with the Sauvignon Blanc in the background.

 

 

 

 

Biodynamic vineyard at Hahndorf Hill

Herbs and grasses under-vine at Hahndorf Hill

And finally, Spring is the time of explosive growth in the vineyard – not only of the vines, but also of the herbs and grasses beneath the vines. Hopefully, by the next posting I will have mowed this down a bit so that it looks more presentable. But biodynamic farming is not meant to be tidy!

 

 

Here’s wishing you all an invigorating Spring with much fun, friends and good food!

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GRU Gruner Veltliner 2013 is born – from buds to bottle

Posted on September 30, 2012 by larry

September always brings a sense of renewal in the vineyard. The vine sap is rising strongly and fresh green shoots seem to pop out overnight, signalling the end of the winter dormancy. It’s extraordinary to think that the entire new vintage is tightly compressed and contained in tiny, sleepy, grapevine buds over the winter period – and then suddenly, under the pressure of Spring, unable to contain themselves any longer, the little brown buds explode with new life. Here are some pictures of the amazing evolution of the humble grape vine bud, from early bud burst in image 1, through to fully recognisable green shoot in image 3. (Double-click on pics to get great 2½ D view … )

gruner veltliner at Hahndorf Hill winery

Image 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gruner Veltliner at Hahndorf Hill Winery in the Adelaide Hills

Image 2

Gruner Veltliner first shoots at hahndorf hill winery in the Adelaide Hills

Image 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The period of time between image 1 and image 3 is about 14 days. At this stage one can almost start imagining how the new vintage in 2013 will be – even though there is still nearly half a year to come before the fruit will finally be harvested.

But one is still allowed to dream!

Fast forward back to the present – and I can happily report that the Hahndorf Hill GRU Gruner Veltliner 2012 has been well received. It has proved to be a very pretty wine with gentle citrus and spicy stone-fruit aromatics – even a touch of tropical pineapple – and wonderfully vibrant on the palate with a crystalline purity, a gritty edge of nectarine pip and a salty, slaty mineral tail.

This is what some of the critics had to say:

94++ Points – Philip White, InDaily
“Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson should be delighted with this textbook example of this Austrian variety they chose years ago to trial to perfection at their pioneering Hahndorf vineyard … it all adds up to a perfumed, complex, highly distinctive white, their best effort yet … An absolute delight … Grrrrrruner!”

Jancis Robinson
” … real ripe GV aromas and a nice, mouth filling palate – not to mention very impressive persistence for a bone dry wine with relatively low alcohol. Many congratulations. Very neat, very varietal and very well balanced.”

I am now raring to go with vintage 2013 and although it is still no more than a twinkle in the eye, I am already planning our potential fermentation options and can virtually smell and taste the end result!

For pre-release allocations of GRU 2013 and further information, please go to: http://bit.ly/ilfxBa

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HHW GRU Gruner Veltliner 2012 due for release in early September

Posted on August 28, 2012 by larry

Larry Jacobs in his beloved Gruner vineyard

How time flies when you’re having fun! I can’t believe that we’re about to release the 2012 GRU – our third vintage of Gruner Veltliner. This vintage was the ‘vintage that we were meant to have’ in 2011 – before all the rain set in! But 2012 has more than adequately made up for that. An almost perfect year which started off with excellent winter rains and then proceeded to unfold gently as one of the mildest summers I can recall since 2002.

The Gruner vines are now more established with excellent balance between canopy and fruit and as each year passes by, I anticipate greater depth and quality in the fruit.

The harvest of this vintage was carried out on different days so as to ensure varying degrees of fruit ripeness for added complexity. Fermentation was carried out in multiple batches – some with selected commercial yeasts and others wild fermented. In addition to this, some of the wine was also wild-fermented in old oak.

And I’m delighted with the end results!

GRU 2012 has a vibrant, complex nose which teases you with apple-skin and pear one moment, and then orange peel and gentle pineapple the next. There are also intriguing hints of root vegetable, crushed herbs and struck flint-stone. Full and round in the mouth, yet beautifully balanced with a core of stone-fruit and a zesty citrus twist. It is continuously textural on the palate with a crystalline purity, a gritty edge of nectarine pip and a salty-slatey mineral tail.

If you have already signed onto our Gruner Loyalty Program, you will shortly be receiving a priority offer from the 2012 allocations.

 

 

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‘Zsa Zsa’ Zweigelt – sibling of Gruner Veltliner and Blaufrankisch

Posted on July 30, 2012 by larry

This spring looks set to be an exciting time for Hahndorf Hill as we will not only release our new ‘GRU’ Gruner Veltliner 2012, we will also release our debut ‘Zsa Zsa’ Zweigelt Rosé 2012.
Zweigelt is the most widely planted red grape in Austria, but it is also grown in lesser amounts in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Canada and now here in the Adelaide Hills of Australia!

The grape was created in 1922 when an Austrian scientist, Dr Friedrich Zweigelt, crossed Blaufrankisch – the prestige red grape of Austria which has grown there for over 1200 years – with Saint Laurent, which is a relative of Pinot Noir.

The new Zweigelt grape soon became extremely popular with Austrian vignerons as it proved to be disease-hardy, frost and drought resistant, early to harvest and generous with its yield. It produced wines that were decidedly fresh and lithe, with luscious cherry flavours and an exotic spicy component.

While the Zweigelt grape is predominantly used in Austria to make a mono-varietal wine, it is also used as a successful blender with Blaufrankisch or with the classic French varieties of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

But, Zweigelt has also developed a reputation in its home country for making a seductive, textural Rosé – hence our decision to use it to create the debut Hahndorf Hill ‘Zsa Zsa’ Zweigelt Rosé 2012, which we think is possibly the first production of Zweigelt in Australia!

HHW ‘Zsa Zsa’ Zweigelt rosé 2012

This maiden vintage of ‘Zsa Zsa’ was made from hand-harvested grapes that were crushed and allowed eight hours skin contact. The juice was then wild-fermented in old French oak.

The colour is a vibrant watermelon-juice hue and the nose has fresh cherries and melon aromas. It is full and unctuous on the palate but perfectly balanced by a vibrant, flinty, mouthful of tart cherries and crushed pomegranate pips, an exciting mineral component and a rich textural finish.

This is a serious rosé that, I suspect, will evolve and continue to develop over the years.

 

 

 

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